We cleared customs and easily found the Beaches lounge. Skycaps took possession of our bags and, while the Beaches staff made a point of saying they weren’t associated with the resort, they were clearly working together (the skycaps work for tips). You don’t need anyone to take your bags to the minibus a few feet away but they really don’t give you a choice. The minibus driver also doesn’t work for the resort and will expect a tip.
There have been many comments on the “scary” ninety minute drive from the airport to the resort. While not up to American safety standards, it wasn’t as bad as I’ve had in some other countries. More terrible by far was the Celine Dion DVD the driver insisted on blasting through the bus’s AV system the whole way there, ignoring the cheers from the riders when he briefly reduced the volume (to be fair, he might not have been able to hear them). If you can tune the driver’s choice of soundtrack out, it’s a fascinating drive, and a dose of reality before you disappear behind the resort walls. You’ll see gorgeous bays and lush mountainsides, as well as how the people of Jamaica really live, which ain’t that romantic (I suspect the real reason so many people have disliked the drive); worth keeping in mind as you head off to paradise.
We arrived at the resort in the early afternoon and were told our room wasn’t ready and, preemptively, that check in time was 3:00 (this said as if our arrival time was our fault); we should check back in a half hour. We had expected that and kept swimming clothes with us, so no big deal. We checked back in an hour. Apparently the “finishing touches” were still being put on the room (who knew it was such an involved process?). Check in is at 3:00. Fair enough. At 3:30 I checked in at the desk again. Still not ready. I joked to my wife that there must be a plumbing problem. At about 4:30 we finally had our room -- small, a bit dirty, and run-down (the crack around the entire door frame would glow at night from the light shining through from the outside), but adequate, with a very nice view of the bay from the balcony and a heroic wall AC unit that battled the humidity and mostly won 24 hours a day. And there was a plumbing problem -- no running water, so no shower and no functional toilet.
I called down to the desk and they said someone would be right up. We waited. Half an hour later I called again and was told no-one would be coming, the entire resort was without water. As evening approached we went out to the public areas to get dinner. And noticed that there was running water. When I asked about the whole resort being out staff laughed. Apparently the front desk’s idea of a joke. So I went to the desk and asked to see the person who had spoken to me before. There were only two people on duty and I was pretty sure I was talking to the right one, but of course she refused to own up (“a lot of people work here”). I eventually got hold of a manager (by now we were approaching 9:00) and let her know that if the issue wasn’t resolved by 9:30 I’d insist on being moved. She said she’d “see if she could do anything,” her tone clearly suggesting she wasn’t intending to do much. Eventually we got a maintenance person up to the room and got our water running, but we were already pretty frazzled and disenchanted.
The tone had been set, and while we didn’t experience quite the same level of mishap again (thankfully), our initial experience was pretty indicative of the way the staff are here. They are cheerful enough when doing what they planned to do anyway, but if you ask for something else, forget it. “No problem” really means “not my problem.” Speaking of which, you hear a lot about hawkers approaching constantly. They did a pretty good job of keeping outsiders off the property (at the Negril property they wait literally at the property line and pretty much jump you if you cross over it -- a valuable lesson in stranger danger if your child is with you, as they will approach hand outstretched saying things like “don’t you remember your friend Jimmy?”), although you are constantly being buzzed by jet skis at the beach while you try to take a peaceful swim. On land, I was really only approached by hotel staff -- security guards specifically -- one of whom offered me drugs (this in the presence of my five year old), and another who told me that the resort was waste of money and that if I would spend five thousand a week with him instead, he would arrange a great vacation for me next time I was in Jamaica.
We settled into a pleasant-enough routine. The resort is at its best in the morning. Breakfast is the best meal -- it’s pretty hard to screw up eggs. Beach and pool for the morning. Lunch at the beachside grill. Nap or read in the room in the afternoon while it rains (which it did every day). Eat dinner, walk the beach at sunset, and go back to the room. The evening entertainment consists of Sesame Street soundtracks, staff “talent” shows, and the predictable pick-up band spewing hackneyed Bob Marley covers -- I recommend you miss them all, take some drinks back to your room, and bring some good reading. By the way, Verizon customers need to know that roaming voice service is available but not data. If you have a wifi-capable device bring it -- for $40 a week it will work in the (non-air-conditioned) lobby -- but otherwise you must rent a clunky and expensive internet kiosk by the minute to get your email.
The beach is truly fabulous, the saving grace of this otherwise sorry resort. It’s clean and spacious, and the clear, warm, calm water makes for excellent swimming. Truly world-class. Though the kids liked it, I wouldn’t bother with the pool, which is the same as you might find at any Holiday Inn (we visited the Negril property one day, and their pool complex is a lot better), and the “snorkeling reef” and other tangential activities are lame -- make the most of your time on the beach. But get your beach time in early because by afternoon the thundershowers settle in until dinner time and there’s nothing to do.
I hinted at the quality of the food before and now it’s time to say it; it’s bad. We hadn’t expected much so we weren’t disappointed, but make no mistake -- you’re eating cafeteria food, and not necessarily according to state of the art food handling practices. It doesn’t matter whether you’re eating in one of the “restaurants” or the buffet, they all serve a subset of the same food. I was amused to see, for instance, what looked suspiciously like lunch meat left over from the buffet show up on the “antipasto bar” at the resort’s “upscale” restaurant that night, and desserts apparently going the other way the following afternoon. Other than breakfast, we found the jerk chicken at the beachside grill to be the best thing going. It’s not totally unhealthy if you take off the skin (although of course you’ll want fries to go with it!), it’s at least partially cooked to order, and it’s pretty tasty if you like some heat.
When it was time to check out we received written confirmation that our bags would be picked up at 7:45 and we could catch the 8:45 bus to the airport. At 8:15 our bags were still sitting in our room so I called down to the desk and was, predictably, told that someone would be by soon. Fifteen minutes later I started hauling them myself. After I dropped off the first large suitcase the person who presumably was supposed to be looking after these things told me tersely that he would get the rest. I told him not to bother. At 9:15 the 8:45 bus duly left for the airport.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.